A maître d’ leaning in to hear a guest at a candle-lit table, a phone in hand.

The change at the table is the one that matters

Alinea, Eleven Madison Park and The Fat Duck ask for dietaries ahead. Eleven Madison Park asks again at the table.

What a late one costs

Time taken from other guests, and the pacing of the menu.

One line, one seat

The floor adds it. The pass holds that seat's next course until you choose the plate.

T967891011Seat 2celeriac instead
Set up tonight's service